08: The Roaches

Gritstone edges each have their own character. When we think of Millstone, for example, we think of cracks, Froggatt means slabs, Burbage South is cold and hard, Burbage North is warm and amenable, and so on and so forth until you get to The Roaches...

The Roaches is impossible to classify. It’s got classic routes, but also classic bouldering. It’s known for its roofs, but also for its slabs. It’s sheltered and shady, but also exposed. It has its micro-routes, but also its two pitchers. To prove the point, in a survey on the Rockfax website, 27 of the top 50 routes were all to be found at the Roaches. In short, it’s got it all, and well deserves its place in my top 10.

The Don Whillans Memorial Hut - Rockhall Cottage.

The first encounter with the Roaches is usually at the Lower Tier. The Lower Tier’s claim to fame is that it is the only crag with accommodation built into it - in the form of Rockhall Cottage, previously the home of the eccentric ‘Doug of the Roaches’, but now managed by the BMC as the Don Whillans Memorial Hut, and available for bookings.

The Lower Tier routes span the full range of grades. The most unique route there has to be Valkyrie, a two pitch VS that takes in some amazing territory, and usually has a steady stream of traffic, queuing to experience the exposed step out left at the start of the second pitch.

Further along to the right, the crag offers a mix of tough crack climbs, and scary slab routes. For climbers who find Valkyrie OK, the next classic in this area is The Mincer, at HVS. From halfway up The Mincer, a brilliant slab/crack link up is Smear Test (E3) - well protected by a side-runner, but it still managed to feel scary! Less technical than Smear Test, but requiring far more in the way of commitment, is the gritstone classic Elegy (E2); knowing that you’ll only be falling into space is of little comfort when you know you’re going to be falling most of the length of the route! Just to the right is the well-named The Swan (E3), a long neck helps a bit - though where on grit doesn’t it?

Above: Tim Bertenshaw on the lower wall of Sloth (HVS)

Below: Meilee Rafe on the lip of Sloth (HVS)

At the far end of the Lower Tier, the quality just keeps on coming, though the standard gets higher. The most amenable extreme around here is Commander Energy (E2), well worth a go if you’re ticking 5c boulder problems. For a less run-out challenge, try Hunky Dory (E3) - it’s a gear-gobbling crack, but of course it helps to have the strength to hang in placing it all.

Before the crag ends, the slabs make their best appearance. A popular introduction to hard slab climbing is Chalk Storm - graded E4 for a protectionless ascent, it is usually done with side runners at a much reduced level of commitment. If commitment is your thing, then you can work your way through Thin Air (E5), Piece of Mind (E6) and Obsession Fatale (E7/8).

As anyone walking in to the Lower Tier will quickly notice, there is a wealth of good bouldering to be found on the left side of the path leading to the Upper Tier. The problems follow strong, natural lines, and provide plenty of good moves in the lower grades, as well as the higher ones. My favourite is ‘Stretch and Mantel’ (6c).

The Upper Tier has a very different feel to the Lower. The most obvious feature of it is domineering roof of The Sloth (HVS). To get a roof this big at HVS is a real treat - so don’t wait until you’re climbing E3, though it will probably not feel much easier. Just to the left is what has to be the biggest roof pitch on grit - though you’ll need to have found the Sloth easy to have any chance on Painted Rumour (E6). But once you’ve done that, you’ll probably want to have a crack at Paralogism (E7).

The hard routes are not typical of the Upper Tier, with plenty of brilliant, well-protected routes to go at, such as Crack and Corner (S), Right Route (VD), Pedestal Route (HVD), and Technical Slab (HS). Just below these routes are more excellent boulders; though getting a bit polished now, they provide a great spot to hang out and watch the dramas unfolding up on the edge.

>> Photo: Meilee Rafe bouldering at the Upper Tier.

Moving back towards the trees, the left-hand end of the Upper Tier continues in the same vein with more amenable classics such as Saul’s Crack (HVS), Black and Tans (S), Black Velvet (HVD), Hollybush Crack (VS). Further left again is the last of the big roof climbs at The Roaches in the form of Wombat (E2), well worth having a go on if you get on well with steep ground - it’s well protected and not exactly technical.

Nick Smith on Wombat (E2)

The final part of The Roaches is the Skyline, a series of buttresses popular with groups, though a good place to get away from the crowds on a sunny weekend. There’s no avoiding the fact that if you’ve walked up past the Upper and Lower Tiers, you’ve probably walked past better routes than you’ll find at the Skyline, but there are still plenty of unsung gems to be found - and without a queue for them. There are the odd three-star classics such as Mantis (HVS), Safety Net (E1), and San Melas (E3). At the very far end of the Skyline, to reward those who have made the journey, are the thin Wings of Unreason (E4), Track of the Cat (E5), Entropy’s Jaw (E5) and Art Nouveau (E6).

Looking along The Skyline

So that’s the Roaches - the best crag of grit? Maybe…

Routes

Mortals

• Right Route (VD)
• Pedestal Route (HVD)
• Black Velvet (HVD)
• Crack and Corner (S)
• Black and Tans (S)
• Technical Slab (HS)
• Hollybush Crack (VS)
• Valkyrie (VS)
• The Mincer (HVS)
• The Sloth (HVS)
• Saul’s Crack (HVS)
• Mantis (HVS)
• Safety Net (E1)

Heros

• Wombat (E2)
• Elegy (E2)
• Commander Energy (E2)
• Smear Test (E3)
• The Swan (E3)
• Hunky Dory (E3)
• San Melas (E3)
• Chalk Storm E4
• Wings of Unreason (E4)

Super Heros

• Track of the Cat (E5)
• Entropy’s Jaw (E5)
• Thin Air (E5)
• A Fist Full of Crystals (E6)
• Art Nouveau (E6)
• Piece of Mind (E6)
• Painted Rumour (E6)
• Paralogism (E7)
• Obsession Fatale (E7/8)

Essential Info for Visitors

Parking can be tricky at peak times, and you may have to walk some way if you arrive late. There is a Park and Ride bus service from Tittesworth Reservoir. If you want to stay at Rockhall Cottage, you need to book well in advance - visit here for more details.

Gear

A full rack with double ropes is needed. A bouldering pad is worth bringing if you fancy a go on the boulders.

Inertia Wall - Lower Tier

When to visit

The Upper Tier is quick drying, and the parts of the crag with tree cover provide shade from the sun and some shelter from the wind. Climbing is possible all year round, but those seeking to try the harder routes would be best advised to visit in the winter months.

Guidebooks

• The Roaches
• On Peak Rock
• Western Grit
• Peak District Bouldering

Nearby Alternatives

Apart from Hen Cloud, the closest grit is Ramshaw. The nearest other major crags are mostly limestone.

View close-up map of The Roaches