Fort William has recently been designated the ‘Outdoor Capital of the UK', and not without good reason. The surrounding Lochaber region extends across over 2000 square miles of mountain country, from Rannoch Mor and Glen Etive in the south, Knoydart in the north, to the islands of the inner Hebrides such as Rum, Eigg, Muck, and Canna in the west, and as far as the Creag Meagaidh nature reserve in the east. With over 70 different adventure activities available in the region the OCUK boasts more activities per square mile than anywhere else in Europe.

Buachaille Etive Mor and Stob Dearg - Image taken over the weekend of this year's Fort William Mountain Festival. 

In addition to the ever expanding variety of adventure activities on offer, Fort William and Lochaber are increasingly becoming synonymous with world-class adventure sports events such as the UCI Nissan Downhill Mountain Biking World Cup - regarded as one of the premier downhill events on the world calendar.

A festival encompassing the spirit of mountain adventure in the most activity-rich destination in Europe seemed like a natural development of this trend, and in 2003 the Fort William Mountain Festival was born. As a five-day celebration of mountains and the culture that surrounds them, the festival includes a programme of mountain sports, films, lectures, guided walks, workshops and photography. 

The last three years of the festival have included an award for an individual who has made an outstanding contribution to Scottish mountain culture. The Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture has previously been awarded to veteran Scottish mountaineer and explorer Hamish MacInnes, in 2008. (MacInnes is a world authority on mountain rescue, heralded with the design of the first ever metal ice-axe and who was behind the development of dropped-pick technology, and was the founder of the Search and Rescue Dog Association as well as an Honorary Member of the Scottish Mountaineering Club, an ex President of the Alpine Climbing Group, and has been awarded the O.B.E. and B.E.M. for services to mountain rescue and sport.) In 2009, the award went to Richard Else, an award-winning filmmaker, whose pioneering approach to filming in remote locations gleaned an insight into the most thrilling climbs, harshest weather conditions and the breathtaking energy of peaks from Patagonia to the Himalaya.

 

The author taking advantage of one of the ski worksops. With 19 runs and 7 lifts the Glencoe Mountain ski resort sits at the Southern end of the OCUK, the resort includes the longest and steepest ski runs in the UK, and throughout the festival offers discounted lessons for beginners and improvers.

The 2010 award was given to Jimmy Marshall, and was to be the focus of this year's event. Taking the title of ‘pioneer of modern Scottish winter climbing', it celebrated Marshall's achievements in the huge advancement of Scottish winter climbing in just one week of consecutive new-routing  on the north face of Ben Nevis in 1960. Marshall and Robin Smith establised  six new routes on the north face of the Ben on consecutive days. Using step cutting techniques and just one ice axe each, the new routes included The Great Chimney (IV,5), Minus Three Gully (IV,5), Smith's Route (V,5), Observatory Buttress (V,4), Piggot's Route (V,6), Orion Direct (V,5) and a fast second ascent of Point Five Gully (V,5) completed in seven hours, as opposed to the original forty by Ian Clough.

 

Ian Macleod of NevisPix is a a local photographer running courses in photography and excursions aimed at capturing the wildlife and stunning scenery of the area. With 18 years of local knowledge at his disposal Ian, captures fantastic images of an inspiring landscape. NevisPix are providers of photography courses throughout the festival.

Jimmy's achievements in February of 1960 were celebrated on their 50^th anniversary this year by his receiving the Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture, and also by seeing his routes repeated by Dave Macleod and Andy Turner. The repeats were achieved using modern climbing tools and techniques, and were captured on film by Hotaches productions. Click for a link to The Great Chimney repeat.

The FWMF opened with a Ceilidh at the Snowgoose restaurant situated 2150ft up on the slopes of Aonach Mor. With the feel of an alpine resort, the restaurant was packed with people awaiting an evening of music and revelry.

Atop what may now be a familiar Gondola to those in attendance. The Nevis Range - with 24 runs, 12 lifts and a ski season that generally runs from December to May - has a huge resum  of facilities, including the world class downhill track and cross country courses such as the Witch's Trail, for use in the warmer months.  Similar to Glencoe Mountain resort, the Nevis Range offers ‘Learn to ski and snowboard' workshops and ‘improver' workshops throughout the festival and with a total of 22 green and blue runs aimed at novices, the variety of slopes to hone skills on is superb.

Aimed at getting newcomers and seasoned mountain adventurers on to the hill, the Festival programme includes winter walking workshops, avalanche awareness courses, winter climbing workshops, skiing lessons tailored for beginners and intermediates, kids walks aimed at promoting environmental awareness, photo workshops, and many more. 

Sitting in on one of the winter walking workshops with Dan Goodwin, provided by Abacus Mountaineering. I watch newcomers to winter walking gain essential skills of movement in winter across snow, and refresh a few techniques myself. (Dan in blue)

Mike Pescod, chairman of the festival since 2007 and co-founder of Abacus Mountaineering, introduced Andy Kirkpatrick on the first evening of lectures. Filled with the risqué comedy for which Andy is well known, he described his kayaking trip documented by BBC Scotland through Patagonia, and of solo attempts on the Eiger.

Andy Kirkpatrick amid mild exaggeration during his lecture. 

Paul Diffley's multimedia show entitled ‘Climbers I've Shot and Some I'd Like to Shoot' was another highlight. Diffley has amassed more than 20 film festival awards, 13 of which went to E11 - one of the most commercially successful European climbing films ever.  

Kevin Shields and Paul Diffley enjoying the festival.

Paul's lecture was followed by the film Single-Handed, following the climbing career of Kevin Shields. After having being born with the majority his left hand missing, Shields has shocked the climbing world with his achievements, which include the documenting on film of a horrendous successful dry tool solo of Fast and Furious (M10+) at Birnam Quarry, which can be found on Hotaches' newest release Monkey See Monkey Do - a frankly remarkable piece of climbing by Kevin.

Feeling inspired by Andy K's lecture, and once a fast water paddler myself, I took a day sea kayaking with local guiding company Rockhopper. Despite the region's perfect environment, Ben and Stuart are one of  the only providers of sea kayaking guiding in the Fort William area.

Sunday evening was arguably the highlight of the festival. Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner gave an evening of film and discussion from the historic week of winter repeats on the north face of the Ben, commemorating Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith's achievements in February 1960. Extra seating was provided for the sell-out audience, which finished with a Q+A session where Jimmy answered questions from a receptive audience.  The final night of the festival saw the Banff world film tour take place, and included superb footage from films such as Mont Blanc Speed Flying, a taster of the truly spectacular film Signatures by Sweetgrass, with another sell-out audience in attendance.

Left to right - Andy Turner, Jimmy Marshall and Dave MacLeod

When comparing the Fort William Mountain Festival to others - such as the Kendal Mountain Festival - one could be mistaken for thinking that a festival on a comparatively small scale could be lacking in content. Yet the reverse is the case; the FWMF is already a fantastic event that looks set to grow substantially in future. 

Thanks go to the Fort William Mountain Festival, Abacus Mountaineering, Glencoe Mountain, Nevis Range, NevisPix, Rockhopper and the Outdoor Capital of the UK, for all their help and support with this article.

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