Inside the Arco Rock Master

Article by Alex Messenger
Wednesday 10th September 2008
If you're at the top of the climbing competition game, there's only one place to be on the first weekend in September - the Arco Rock Master.

First held in 1987, the Arco Rock Master is the oldest and most famous climbing competition in the world. Over 6,000 spectators make the pilgrimage to the chic Italian mountain town of Arco to see the strongest competition climbers in the world battle it out. Entry is by invitation only, and the cast for 2008 was impressive: Patxi Usobiaga and Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Angela Eiter and Maja Vidmar. Unfamiliar names climbing unfamiliar grades - Paxti Usobiaga has onsighted F8c+ - all dreaming of being crowned Rock Master. Running alongside the Rock Master is the Sint Rock bouldering competition, starring steely-fingered climbers on the current World Cup circuit.

You never normally get to see so many fearsomely strong climbers in the same place - let alone setting themselves against one another - and spectators gather from across Europe to make a weekend of it. They come to cheer on their favourites, to get a suntan, to eat ice cream and sink cold beers. All while looking effortlessly stylish.

Style, sun, and strong climbers - what's not to like? See you there next year.

This year the Rock Masters were Patxi Usobiaga (Spain) and Johanna Ernst (Austria). Kilian Fischhuber (Austria) and Katharina Saurwein (Austria) won the Sint Rock bouldering competition. See www.rockmaster.com for full results.



The Arco Rock Master is held on a permanent outdoor climbing wall, near the campsite in the climbing mecca of Arco, northern Italy.

 

 
The Arco Rock Master has been described as the climber's Wimbledon: thousands of climbers gather to watch their favourite athletes compete against each other.

 

Young Austrian Angela Eiter (left), winner of the last four Rock Masters, prays for good holds in the Women's on-sight route. Before they climb, all the competitors are introduced to the crowd and have five minutes to check out their route.

 

The wall is steep, and the routes are a real test of stamina, set by the famous routesetting duo of Leonardo Di Marino and Donato Lella.

 


Maja Vidar from Slovenia is a seasoned competition climber. Here in isolation she had just heard Angela Eiter battle her way to the top of the wall - and knew she had her work cut out.

 

A collection of the strongest forearms in the world? The male bouldering competitions wait to start.

 

Sean MacColl from Canada cutting loose on the fiercely overhanging problems in front of an appreciative crowd.

 

Austrian powerhouse Killian Fischuber won this year's Sint Rock Men's Bouldering competition.

 


The male Rock Master contenders looking rather worried at what the routesetters have created for them.

 


Ramon Julian Puigblanque from Spain was gunning for his 4th Gold at Rock Master. Climbing smoothly and powerfully, he cruised to the top. There was only one climber in the world who could beat him, his teammate Paxti Usobiaga...

 


Paxti Usobiaga started off slowly, even nervously, but soon found his stride. By the time he hit the top roofs, he was climbing at full speed - and beat Ramon Julian on the clock. The crowd went wild - Arco had a new Rock Master.

 


As soon as Paxti hit the ground, he was surrounded by fans wanting him to sign posters, T-shirts, even them selves.

 


One of the more unusual events at the Rock Master is a duel between the top four climbers. Here, two climbers climb side-by-side on identical routes. The first to the top wins. Here 15-year old Johanna Ernst has just beaten Maja Vidmar.

 


But who would win the duel between arguably the two best climbers in the world - Paxti Usobiaga (L) and Ramon Julian Puigblanque? The route they onsight at very high speed is about F8a - but they destroy it like it's F6a.

 


And the answer was Ramon Julian Puigblanque (R) - just letting Paxti know who's boss...

 


Katharina Saurwein from Austria won her first Sint Roc Boulder Contest, ahead of Anna Stöhr (Austria) and Katja Vidmar (Slovenia).

 


Even being in italy doesn't guarantee you sunshine all the time. Bouldering routesetter Jacky Godolphe looks on in dismay as a thunderstorm sweeps through in the middle of the women's bouldering final.

 

                                              
On Sunday night there's only one place to be, and one thing to do: beers at the Caffe Conti D'Arco, where competitiors and spectators wind down after another action-packed Rock Master. Roll on next year!

 

Bookmark: Add to Favourites Add to Google Bookamrks Add to Delicious Digg this Add to Myspace Add to Facebook Add to furl Add to Yahoo Review on StumbeUpon Add to reddit Add to Newsvine Add to Windows Live Favourites
Subscribe to RSS Feed Add to Technorati Add to Twitter Add to Yahoo Bookmarks Add to Aol Favourites Add to Ask Add to FARK Add to Slashdot Add to Mixx Add to Multiply Add to Simpy Add to Blogmarks

Comments

There are currently no comments on this article.

Add a Comment

Title
Comment
Security Code:


Please enter the security code in the text box below.