Neil Gresham's Guide to Cross Training

Introduction: what is cross training?

Cross training is the term used to describe any type of exercise or activity which is used for complementary training purposes for a given sport. Most forms of cross training involve high duration, low intensity activity and hence will tend to tax the cardiovascular energy system; for example: running, cycling*, swimming or aerobics. However, for climbing purposes, activities such as weight training, gymnastics, martial arts, dance and yoga could also be classed as cross training seeing as they often utilise similar muscle groups and motorskills.

*of all the main aerobic activities, cycling is the least suited to climbing owing to the risk of developing on excessive leg muscle.

Why cross training?

For those of us who wish to do long trad routes or sport climbs which require high levels of endurance, the need for cross training should go without saying. It simply isn't possible to develop high levels of cardiovascular fitness by climbing alone. By including some other type of aerobic activity in your training schedule you can increase your VO2 max (* this is the term given to express the relationship between lung capacity and the ability to uptake and transfer oxygen), as well as increasing the density of capillary networks in local muscles, which will assist with the dispersal of lactic acid when climbing. In fact, having high levels of aerobic fitness will generally improve your ability to recover on shake-outs and climb in a more relaxed and less breathless manner!

Fitting it all in?

So where's the catch? For those climbers who are lazy and unmotivated there isn't one - you simply need to get out there 2-3 times a week and exercise for 25-40 minutes at a moderate to brisk rate. Those who train with a heart monitor should aim to sustain a heart rate of approximately 120bpm (or twice that of their resting pulse, which is usually about 60bpm). The difficulty comes if you really are an aerobic junky who can't live with yourself unless you run 100 miles a week.

Clearly there is a fine line between an activity being complementary to climbing and becoming detrimental. Prolonged aerobic or anaerobic exercise will deplete glycogen reserves and may impair your recovery from more important climbing sessions, resulting in a reduced rate of progress or, worse still, illness or over-training related injury. During phases of hard climbing, restrict your cross training activities to no more than twice a week and at no harder than approximately 100bpm (or level 2 on an intensity training scale - where 1 is the lightest session and 4 is the hardest).

The recuperation phase

The best time in the training year to make use of cross training activities is either when nursing an injury, or during a strategic break from climbing which can be taken at the end of the season proper. Many climbers feel the need to rest both body and mind from the stresses and strains of climbing in order to rekindle motivation and rest their joints and tendons. However, winding down your climbing may provide an ideal opportunity to crank up the frequency and intensity of other activities.

Ice climbing at Ouray, Colorado.
Photo: Tim Glasby
For those with a taste for the Winter stuff, the ice climbing season will coincide perfectly - giving you the chance to rest your fingers but keep that long term aerobic stamina that translates perfectly to the rock. Alternatively, take up something completely different to hone skills which may translate to climbing indirectly. Marshall arts, gymnastics and dance are superb for flexibility, speed, co-ordination, balance and mental sharpness. You could even try 'slack-lining' which climbers are practising in camp sites, parks, beaches or wherever two sturdy trees can be found above flat soft ground. Don't scorn - you'll be shocked at the improvements in your balance and concentration after a day or two on the line!