Neil Gresham's Guide to Endurance Training

Introduction: stamina explained

Last issue I examined the best way to train for 'middle distance' routes which require a form of fitness known as anaerobic endurance. In this type of climbing, the moves are so hard and intense that it just isn't possible to continue climbing for more than 3 or 4 minutes without either burning out completely or reaching a rest. In other words, the energy systems involved have a definitive shelf life!

Long distance climbing: Mothership Connection
(5.13a/7c+) El Potrero Chico, Mexico.
Photo: Berry Collection
When it comes to endurance for much longer climbs with easier moves, clearly we have to rely on a different, more sustainable, system of energy production whereby oxygen is used to flush out the burning cramp that is induced in fatiguing muscles from lactic acid.

In contrary to anaerobic training which is about achieving an optimum level of quality and quantity, with this type of training you must maximise the volume of work at all costs by using routes of a sufficiently low level of difficulty to enable you to hang in there for as long as it takes. If you make the mistake of training on routes that are too intense and which requires near maximum effort, the muscles are forced to contract so hard that the surrounding capillary network is literally squeezed shut and, hence, blood flow is temporarily restricted. The result is that the process of lactic acid removal is hindered rather than encouraged.

Stamina climbing is all about the ability to recover on easier ground. So by training at a reduced intensity for an increased duration you can actually increase the density of the capillary supply to your climbing muscles. The result being more efficient use of oxygen, better dispersal lactic acid and hence, better recovery and an increased ability to stay relaxed and confident on long, sustained climbs..

Guidelines for stamina training

With stamina training you should aim to climb for between 10 and 45 minutes at a time, on terrain which you feel moderately taxed, but in complete control. To make this possible the climbing must be no harder than between approximately 30-50% of your limit. For gauging intensity, a good rule of thumb is that you should be able to stop, chalk up and shake comfortably and hold a conversation at almost any point. You can also experiment by attempting routes or circuits which have a fairly constant level of difficulty and others which have particular crux sections interspersed with good rests.

Stamina training on dedicated colour coded circuits.
Photo: Berry collection

If you are training on the leading wall then, needless to say, you'll need to down-climb so a patient belayer is essential. Always aim to finish in a reasonably well recovered state, almost as if you could have kept going for longer if boredom thresholds had allowed. With the shorter stamina routes or circuits which take between 10 and 20 minutes to complete, you may wish to repeat the efforts between 4 and 10 times subject to your level of fitness or how hard you desire to train on that day. With the longer (25-45 min) bursts, 2-5 repetitions will usually suffice. Note that 1-3 very light 15-20 minute stamina climbs can make an ideal active rest day to help you flush the toxins from your muscles and recover from hard previous sessions.

Sample stamina training session - the Intensity Pyramid

(On leading wall or bouldering)

Session 1

• 10 mins on at 70% effort (10 mins rest)
• 20 mins on at 60% effort (20 mins rest)
• 30 mins on at 70% effort (30 mins rest)
• 20 mins on at 60% effort (20 mins rest)
• 10 mins on at 70% effort (10 mins rest)

Session 2

• 30 mins on at 70% effort (30 mins rest)
• 20 mins on at 60% effort (20 mins rest)
• 10 mins on at 70% effort (10 mins rest)
• 20 mins on at 60% effort (20 mins rest)
• 30 mins on at 70% effort (30 mins rest)

Other tips - stick training

This popular method can be used when training stamina on a bouldering circuit to make things more interesting and simulate the effect of climbing onsight on a route. The idea is for a partner to use a stick to point to the next hold or sequence of holds and for you to work out the most efficient way to climb between them. Obviously this requires good knowledge of your training partner's ability so you can set them a circuit of the appropriate standard.

Remember that stamina training is all about maximising the sheer volume of time spent tolerating various different levels of an accumulating or recessing pump. Being less intense than bouldering or anaerobic endurance training, it is perfectly possible to train stamina after either of these types of session, whether in the same day or the next day.