Neil Gresham's Guide to Training Juniors 2

Whilst the number one reason for young people to climb is to have fun, hopefully my last article will have pointed out that there are many hidden risks associated with misguided training for climbing at a young age. Many of the top climbers who I have consulted on this subject have felt that with a different approach to climbing during childhood and adolescence, they would not only be way better now but they might not be paying for some of their nagging recurring injuries. The aim of this article is to organsie some of the ideas, facts and theories that were discussed last issue into a practical, hands-on training guideline for use by young climbers or by any adults involved in coaching.

1) General approach - technique first!

In any sport it is vital to develop skills before strength. The basis of climbing is technique and crag sense; which means that gaining a massive foundation of routes and cragging experience is of far more use than wall training in the early years. Walls offer a very limited repertoire of climbing moves and, having gained initial experience indoors, the only way to further your technique it is to get to the crag as much as possible and experience different rock types. Remember also that physiologically, the best time to learn motor skills is during childhood (the earlier the better) whereas peak strength gains are made during the late teens and early twenties.

'Young climbers should forget training and concentrate on climbing'.
Ben Moon

It is also vital not to push too hard too soon both from a physical and a mental point of view. Succeeding on climbs develops a positive and confident attitude as well as providing the first critical foundation of low intensity training upon which to build . If you burn out on everything you will overtrain and fail to progress.

'Avoid falling off at all costs although don't become scared of it! Work your way through the grades and always complete stuff - Look after your tendons as well'.
Leo Holding

2) Anaerobic endurance and stamina training

Research suggests that the younger a climber, the more they should emphasise endurance training rather than strength. Endurance training provides the firm foundation upon which strength and power can safely be built. Remember that longer, aerobic endurance and stamina training is less stressful to the young athlete than more intensive 'middle distance' anaerobic endurance training. An approximate guideline is given below.

Typical session definitions

• Stamina: long routes at crag (eg; trad)
• Anaerobic endurance: Shorter sport routes at leading wall or circuits 15-30 moves
• Strength / power (see below)

Under 12's:   2 stamina : 1 anaerobic endurance : 1 strength
12-15's:  1 stamina : 1 anaerobic endurance: 1 strength/power
16+: As required

Note that these ratios are very general and can be adjusted according to the specific needs or goals of individuals. It is also very important for younger climbers to be very strict with rest intervals between bursts of effort. Approximately 10-15 mins of time should be allocated for cooling off and rehydrating for every half hour of climbing. For an endurance climbing session of over an hour in length, an electrolytic replacement drink should be taken eg: Maxim, Isostar, High 5 (intake guideline: water with 0.3 g / litre of salt, 0.28 g/l of potassium chloride and up to 25g/l of sugar)

3) Strength whatever happens -enjoy it!

With thanks also to David France (youth climbing coordinator) for ideas and assistance

With thanks also to David France (youth climbing coordinator) for ideas and assistance