The World's Hardest Wall

Introdution by Arnaud Petit and Dave Pickford

Over the course of two expeditions this summer, a team of top French climbers have succeeded in free climbing every pitch of the line known as Tough Enough in Madagascar's Tsaranoro Massif. The route was established by Germans Daniel Gebel and Ari Steinel, who made the first ascent on aid in 2005. After numerous efforts by a diverse group of European climbers over the last three years, the most continuously difficult big-wall free climb in the world has finally come into being.

The first concerted free-climbing attempt on the line was in 2007, when an expedition organised by film-maker Evrard Wendenbaum made some significant progress. Giovanni Quirici climbed pitches 2 (8a) and 4 (7c), and Francois Legrand quickly opened pitches 5 and 6 (both at 8a+). Legrand very nearly succeeded in redpointing the awesome 50-metre 9th pitch on the headwall, but fell exhausted from its final crux section, taking a massive fall.

In April 2008, British climbers James McCaffie and Dave Pickford spent a few days on the wall. McCaffie made a very quick redpoint of pitch 3 (8b) whilst Pickford flashed pitch 1 (7b+) and repeated Quirici's free ascent of pitch 2 (8a). McCaffie also redpointed a shorter (40m) version of the infamous ninth pitch ('Gecko'), considering that version to be worth 8b+ in its own right. McCaffie - who made the second ascent of Johnny Dawes's desperate slab masterpiece in Wales The Very Big And The Very Small (8b+) - estimates that 'Gecko' is one of the world's hardest slab climbs in its own right. 

The finished version of the topo-diagram of 'Tough Enough': copyright Arnaud Petit 2008

This June, French climbers Stephanie Bodet, Sylvain Millet, Laurent Triay, and Arnaud Petit had a very successful trip, making good use of cool conditions to free climb all but one pitch of 'Tough Enough'. Millet solved the problem of the confounding 8th pitch (originally known as 'Chameleon') by bolting and then quickly redpointing a slightly different line to the left: Millet dubbed his new pitch 'Mora Mora'. Luckily, it gave spectacular access to the huge headwall at a mere 8b+, since the French expedition had feared the original 'Chameleon' pitch was at least 8c+, or even 'impossible'!

Arnaud Petit redpointed the bizarre and highly technical roof-traverse of pitch 7 (Frigo, 8b), and along with Millet he then climbed the final barrier to the top: 'Hercule' (pitch 10) also went free at 8b. But Petit - like Francois Legrand in 2007 - just missed the redpoint of pitch 9 in June, and was determined to return later in the summer to complete the project.

Sure enough, in early September Petit and Bodet returned to Madagascar, and were joined shortly afterwards by Francois Lombard, Pierre Lesne, and Yann Ghesquiers. This time, despite hot conditions, Petit managed to redpoint 'Gecko' on his first redpoint attempt, considering it to be perhaps the finest pitch he has ever climbed. It was left to Yann Ghesquiers to redefine the history of big-wall free climbing as it happened. Shortly after Arnaud Petit's redpoint of 'Gecko', Ghesquiers abseiled down the headwall on an exceptionally cool afternoon. The talented Frenchman then put in one of the more impressive climbing performances of the year: he promptly flashed the pitch. Ghesquiers's ascent of 'Gecko' now ranks as the hardest flash on a big-wall to date, and is a dramatic conclusion to the story behind the world's toughest big-wall free climb.

Clearly, Ghesquiers has laid down a futuristic gauntlet in this stunning achievement. The challenge of a continuous free ascent of the entire route must rank among the most alluring quests for the world's leading rock climbers. 'Tough Enough' is a monumental climb in every sense, and is likely to remain a benchmark of big-wall free climbing for many years. 

'Tough Enough' - a photographic essay by Arnaud Petit 

Arnaud Petit on the final crux moves of pitch 9, 'Gecko' (8b+)

The June 2007 French Expedition under the West Face of Karimbony (from left): Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Sylvain Millet, Laurent Triay

Stephanie Bodet redpointing the dynamic and highly technical 6th pitch: 'Aloe Vera' (8a+) 

Sylvain Millet redpointing the superb 5th pitch: the 'Enduro Corner' (8a+)

Sylvain Millet on the final hard moves of 'Tough Enough': pulling through the steep bulge on pitch 10 ('Hercule', 8b) 

Arnaud Petit on the crux moves of 'Frigo', pitch 7 (8b). This bizarre and technical roof pitch sweeps out right, giving access to the upper headwall

 Sylvain Millet approaching the crux of pitch 2: 'Lemurenklo' (8a). The roof traverse of pitch 7 (see above) is just visible in the top centre of this photograph. 

 The True Master of Slabs: the Ringtailed Lemur is prolific in the Tsaranoro Region. These garrulous creatures are often encountered around the base of Karimbony, frequently running (!) across 70-degree granite.

Yann Ghesquiers about to clip the belay at the end of 'Gecko' (pitch 9, 8b+) after his astonishing flashed ascent on a cold afternoon in September 2008. [Photo by Fred Labreveux]

 - All photographs copyright Arnaud Petit, 2008 -

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