Me and Callum Colwell-story drove down in my van. Dave, Ben, Liam and Sam attempted to push Dave’s Kangoo and a redonculous amount of stuff all the way to Pembroke, after the head Gasket went half way there. They soon gave up and headed to the pub to wait for George Foster to pick them up in his little Fiesta. (Dave then bought some breakdown cover with the intent of calling them at the end of the week for a lift home)
(Sam, Ben, Dave, Liam, Me, Callum
First day while we where waiting for the others, me George and Callum climbed at Trevellen after a very late start. We did Trevelan Pillar, sunlover and Barbarella, “which was for years the hardest E4 in the world” (quote from rockfax).
After being woken at 5am again, (first time was because we where actually being eaten alive by clouds of midges) by a rather annoying man, saying that we where in a firing range and we where going to get shot if we didn’t get out by half 7. We headed up to north Pembroke as we where told they would be firing all week.
So we did a team crush of Carreg-y-Barcud, I think there is now chalk on pretty much every line on the crag. :P
I was Please to on-sight a number of E5’s and Sledgehammer E6 6b. I noticed the line just to the left of sledgehammer which didn’t seem to be in the guide. George F said he thought he recognized the line from an article of Dave Pickford in climb about 3 or 4 years ago. The info that George could remember about the article seemed to fit the line. “Climb boldly up to the peg, step left and continue up to the top, only a gecko could climb directly.” (Picture above)
After inspecting the line and top roping it a couple of time’s, I went for the lead. The first section, which is the bold part of the route, went well. Although I did have to hold my breath as I did the final rock over move on my thumb to the peg. Then I stepped left to good gear and a stopper 6c move, which threw me off. Bummer…
I tried again but it threw me off again, my foot just didn’t want to stick!
After falling off this move twice in a row and having already doing the dangerous part of the route twice. I didn’t really fancy doing it again just to fall off at the top.
I spoke to Dave Pickford and found out that he did the first ascent of the Route “re Daddy Cool” and it goes right, not left at the peg. Oops.
Perhaps I will give it another shot next time I’m down there…
Another highlight of the trip was a really cool bit if dws we found on an exceptionally hot day!
We headed home via nesscliff for an hour before it started to rain…
I couldn't not put this picture in!
(All pictures taken by George Foster and Calum Coldwell-Story)