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planetFear - Rock Climbing, Adventure Racing, Mountain Biking

Sooo close!

Posted by George Ullrich
Thursday 15th October 2009

Iv had my eye on this line since I went to check out the crag sometime in august. At first, looking at it from the ground, it didn’t look possible. But after abseiling down it, it soon became clear there was a definite line on it! And potentially really good!

Since August I’ve been up there 5 or 6 time messing around on a rope working it all out.  There is 4 pieces of decent natural pro on the whole route, making it a little bold at the start, but just about manageable.

 

I’ve taken this topo from Jack Geldards Blog to show where the line I’ve been trying goes.

 topo of the crag – my line is the left hand one.

 

Today I head up there with Giles with big expectations of attempting it despite the gloomy weather.  

me abseiling the line to dry a crucial hold.

After drying a few holds and a successful top rope ascent I decided to get on the lead. As I was tying in, the crag was swallowed by cloud. I thought it best to get on it before everything got too damp. It was all going swimmingly well and I thought I had it in the bag, until I fumbled trying to get a finger lock at the very top.  Bummer… After a quick shake out, I pulled over the top on damp slimy rock.

 

I will be back again tomo morning before a lecture at 3, hope for sunshine!

 

Read more blog entries by George Ullrich

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