"Muy Caliente!" E10 6c

Posted by Tim Emmett
Monday 7th June 2010


Some of you may have seen the footage on the “Welsh Connections” DVD of me going for it big time and very nearly falling off, in the middle of a wild run out in Stennis Ford. It was well out of my league!

Welsh Connections - Pembroke. Award winning short film - Rock Climbing from Bamboo Chicken Productions on Vimeo.

Since scaring myself on that attempt, I stopped drinking and started training like a fiend.

Then it started raining. It kept raining for most of the winter and only recently has it started to dry off.

Then at the end of February I broke my leg – Shit !  They wanted to put me in plaster. I resisted and got a removable cast instead.

Desperately trying to stay fit, I started doing one foot climbing, close to the ground in the Climbing Academy in Bristol.  Campusing and deadhanging too.

Eight weeks later I get the all clear from the surgeon to resume “normal activity”

I start top roping routes and try climbing outside.

2 Weeks after that I start leading on gear and take 12 falls on 3 routes in Pembroke. It wasn’t looking good!

2 days after that I climb an F8a, and decide to go back to Pembroke to see if I can tope rope my project in one go.  I couldn’t. After doing the last crux move once in isolation, I couldn’t do it again – at all. Skin was trashed.

I keep climbing as much as possible for the next week. Starting to get fitter.

I fly to Scotland to climb with Dave MacLeod in an attempt to climb 5 new routes, on 5 islands, in 5 days. I felt seriously under gunned.

We climb our socks off and did some cool stuff, much success and failure!  I just managed to keep up with the Scottish climbing mutant!

2 days off and following advice from Dave about “Glycogen Dumping” I drive to Pembroke the lightest I have been in 10 years, and feeling as ready as ever.

Soloed Pleasure Dome to loosen up, it felt fantastic I knew  I was cranking! Got on my project, tried the moves, all the holds felt bigger than before, but still apprehensive about the last crux section. Still hadn't  top roped it in one go.

Decided to go for the lead.

Everything went perfectly until I got to the final crux, then somehow I jibbered my way to the top. Spicy Times! So made up !  

Bamboo Chicked caught all the action on film, Dave Brown (one of the camera crew) said “ It’s the first time I have seen someone fall off, without letting go!”

Thanks to anyone who knew about it and didn't try and do it while I was recovering from injury ;-) It's only one minute from the car park - go for it !




Read more blog entries by Tim Emmett

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