Mike Adams Repeats Sean’s Roof

Sean's roof on the peak limestone of Blackwell Dale, was bolted by Sean Myles -from the roof of his car- back in the 90's and eventually freed by Jerry Moffatt. Since then it has had repeats from Malcolm Smith, Mark Leach and John Welford, the route was originally given French 8b+- but I have a feeling that over the years it has shed some holds becoming a bit harder.

 

Aside from the very hard climbing (font 8a+ish nowadays) the crux seems to be finding the route dry enough to climb on, as well as putting up with the smell of wee and rubbish in the cave for long enough to work out the moves.

 

On Sunday 8^th August Mike Adams did the deed. He chose to use a rope rather than solo/highball it as he only had 2 pads with him, which isn't enough. Although the cave is very small, with the finishing holds at about 6m, the last cut loose is pretty spicy, and dropping it here while soloing can easily lead to being face first in the road - see video. E15 anyone?!

Dan Variable faceplant from dobbin on Vimeo.

 

Joking aside, this is a fine achievement from one of climbing's darkest dark horses. I would love to be operating at this standard when I am "weak". Nice one Mike. Hopefully this has paved the way for some more repeats, a ground up ascent must be on the cards?

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