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planetFear - News - Screaming Dream Repeat - Michele Caminati

Screaming Dream Repeat - Michele Caminati

Report by planetFear
Monday 2nd April 2012

James Blay Wild Country's International Sales Rep sets the scene...

 

"After an unsuccessful trip to Froggatt to climb Renegade Master on Saturday evening I headed back into Sheffield to grab some food with friends before the premier of Life On Hold at The Climbing Works. The film was phenomenal, Nick Brown has managed to capture many significant ascents of highball boulder problems here in the UK over the last two years and combine them to produce an awe inspiring film culminating in Mickey Page climbing High Fidelity at Caley, and Ned Feehally climbing Samson at Burbage South.


Full of enthusiasm after the previous night's screening I met with Michele Caminati at Froggatt on the Sunday morning to try to finish Renegade Master and Michele had his sights set on Screaming Dream. Michele had climbed Renegade during his last trip to the Peak in 2011 and during this, his second spring visit to the UK in as many years, he's managed to rattle off many more classic boulder problems and traditional routes. I've had the privilege of climbing with Michele a handful of times during this trip, he's watched me struggle with Renegade and I've witnessed him solo routes with his rucksack on and approach shoes swing from the back; I've also spotted him whilst he's tried Screaming Dream on a couple of occasions and had to leap out of the way as he's fallen dynoing for the top of an 8a+ project!

 

Michele Caminati Falling New Statesman Peak District

Michele falling off New Statesman at Ilkley.

He took a big fall from New Statesman at Ilkley on the Friday, high up on second crux after placing gear. His heel suddenly slipped and found himself rolling down the crag. Undeterred and uninjured, there he was Sunday morning raring to go. I was up first and after a rather wobbly first go and slipping from the first moves of Renegade I managed to climb it on my second attempt of the morning, suffice to say I was completely ecstatic as you might be able to tell from the video!

Screaming Dream & Renegade Master at Froggatt from Wild Country on Vimeo.

Wild Country sponsored climber, the Italian Michele Caminati has made the first repeat of 'Screaming Dream' (UK grade E7 7A) as a highball boulder problem above pads.
The route was first climbed by Mark Leach in 1987 and as a testament to how hard the climbing is the route has only seen 5 ascents in 25 years. All of these were led and those most recently used pre-placed and pre-clipped Friends above the crux, in effect creating a top rope to protect the climber.
However, Michele’s solo or highball ascent now opens up the line to those looking for an excellent highball Font 8a boulder problem!
His ascent is perhaps even more impressive coming only two days after a pretty terrifying fall from 8 metres on the 2nd crux of New Statesman E8 7a, at Ilkley.
Go Michele!
See more about Michele here:http://bit.ly/HgPUmQ


We then moved the pads over for Michele to attempt Screaming Dream. He looked very comfortable on the first few moves up the crack compared to his previous couple of sessions and after 2 or 3 goes found himself set up ready to make the big crux move to the crimp, he over shot the crimp, gripped a terrible hold above it momentarily before falling to the mats.
"Why?, why?" Michele repeated, "I missed it!", but fortunately Michele had another go in him and after a brief rest he made the first repeat of Screaming Dream as a highball boulder problem above pads grading it Font 8a.


You can watch Michele's ascent in my video. I'm just really glad we held on to the Grit season long enough to get these two done!".

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