Many people each year climb the Aguglia at Goloritzè on the E coast of Sardinia. At times you have to queue, and the rock is polished at the start. But now, with the opening of Parthenia, at the arguably even more spectacular and beautiful, and decidedly more committing, Punta Giradili to the south, there's a multi-pitch route only a little bit harder than Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento and Easy Gymnopedie on the Aguglia, and like them overlooking the blue sea. And arguably a better route for the grade.
Our friends Roberto Vigiani and Luisa Siliana bolt a lot of routes in Ogliastra, and had called in at The Lemon House in October to tell us about it. Roberto (famous for opening Hotel Supramonte at Gorroppu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Giradili with Rolando Larcher) was grinning from ear to ear, he was that pleased with the route!
Ten days ago, Peter and his regular climbing partner, the only (!) other local climber, Luca, went to repeat Parthenia, whose base you reach in 30' drive and 30' walk from The Lemon House.
Parthenia climbs the spur and arête to the left of Punta Giradili's huge cave. 220m plus 30m of scrambling on the intermediate ledge. Fully bolted - take 15 quickdraws and a few slings/kevlars for thread and trees. One 80m or two 50m ropes. S2 (bolts 5m apart on easier sections, similar to a crag on the hard pitch) max 6b+, 6a obligatory. You can download the topo from Roberto Vigiani's post on Toscoclimb where there are some nice photos of Roberto and Luisa Siliana.
The route is GREAT, one of the best MP routes Peter has done in Sardinia and quality-wise up there with what was up-to-now the easiest route at Giradili, Mediterraneo S2 7a+ max, 6b obl. So Parthenia is a lot easier, but no less fine. In the upper section you climb up the arête on the L of Giradili's huge cave, a really great position.
The routes on the Aguglia, on the other hand, have 6c moves but are less serious (S1/S1+) and are easier if you use aid, with 5c obligatory. So Parthenia is harder than Sinfonia and Easy Gymnopedie. It also has more of a "mountain" feel to it, with retreat being more difficult and the return path from the summit being hard to find in mist and impossible in the dark.
Don't miss it!
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