Chamonix Update 5th August - Changeable Conditions

Posted by Rob Wills Alpine Blog
Thursday 5th August 2010
 

Greetings and salutations fellow humans.

Yes I know it's been a few days since I last reported in, so I have a lot of catching up to do. Here goes.

Conditions are changing quite quickly out here. We seem to be having a day of good weather then a day of bad, with snow down to 2500 this week and the freezing level is around 3500 to 3900. Valley temps have been averaging 25 c but colder on some days.

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Looking out of the apartment window I can see the Midi and the summit of the Blanc. What snow that has been put down over the past few days has all but gone, the lower half of the Frendo Spur was clear of snow, but again that will change with the new snow forecast. There is a track on Mont Blanc du Tacul, again that may change with the next bout of snow we are going to have, but the long term forecast does hint at warmer temps again next week.

 

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Here's what's been done over the last 10 days or so, bear in mind its other people's impression of the route and not what I've seen in person.

For those of you thinking of doing the Blanc via the Gouter route, just be aware that the train/tram way doesn't go all the way to the Le Nid d'Aigle, it only goes as far as the Col du Mt Lachat, which leaves you with an extra 250 metres height gain, walking alongside the track. The Grand Couloir has snow in it all the way down to where you access the ridge that takes you up to the hut.

31st July-Kuffner Arete, sounded like it was in good condition, with an ok track/trail to follow

30th July- Lyskam East, Arete sella, there was new snow at the time, which did help, and was in good condition

27th July- Contamine/Mazeud route on the Triangle du Tacul, very icy in places  bergschrund was ok to pass, the same team reported some loose rock in the start of the Chere couloir, but spoke to some other teams who had done and they didn't mention it ?????

24th July- Kuffner, again sounded in ok conditions.

20th July- Cordier Pillar Grand Charmoz, dry rock all the way and no problems accessing the route.

19th July- The Walker Spur, whoever did it didn't include much, if any info, which is a shame.

19th July- 5 teams bailed off the Frendo Spur, due to extensive stone fall, some BIG blocks !!!!!

And so far that's it. As for myself, well just been doing loads of big runs, up to 3hrs long, and rock climbing and bouldering.

As per usual folks, do your homework, and research, there is still a lot more of the season left, so be safe and have fun.

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Comments

Walker Spur - 10/08/2010
We did the Walker Spur on the 18th/19th July and it was in great condition, mostly dry rock with only one or two icy/snow pitches. Was busy that day too with at least 5 teams completing the route. Unfortunately I guess all has changed now! There was a good spell of weather earlier in the season which dried a lot of the high rock stuff out....

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