Greetings one and all, I'm back in Scotland again for a few weeks, here's what we've been up to over the past few days .The weather and avo conditions have sort of played havoc with us this week, but Tim and Chris had the patience to put up with it, thanks guys.
Wednesday 16th Feb Aonach Eagach Ridge Deep snow on most of it, approach was ok, no probs; the route itself went without hitch ,much frivolity amongst the 2 teams that were on it along with us. The viz was.....well not there, the occasional tempting hint, but we were all well rewarded for our efforts on the way down, with a rainbow and most of the glen clearing out for some stunning views as the sun was setting.
Thursday 17th Feb Tim, Chris and I went to do Dorsal Arete Very, very busy - we were second in the queue for the top section with another 10 folks behind. The boys were switching leads up the route and were going well, and I did actually see Tim place several bits of gear. We stuck to the rock fin, and resisted the temptation to do otherwise, and got to the top in good time. There were teams on Central Grooves, Unicorn, Twisting Gully, and poss a team heading for NC Gully.
Still a lot of snow up there and the approach to some of the routes was a bit twitchy and it's not going to improve much over the weekend with the weather that's forecast. Keep your eyes peeled to the Avalanche forecasts.
Friday 18th Feb same team as above did a quick hit on the first pitch of Water Fall Gully on The Ben Short and sweet, quite well chopped, step onto slab section ok, some folks going direct up the squeeze section and quite a few teams waiting to go for it. French team on Gemini, but the claggy, cloudy day made it hard to see who or what was being done, but I'm sure if you hunt around other websites you should be able to find out.
I'm trying to get out on the hill this weekend, but think I may be Ice Factor Bound at least on Saturday. I'm in the Gorms next week then back across west for another week for more action.
Take care out there and be safe.
Whether you're a beginner at snow and ice climbing or are looking to push your grades Rob can help you get to grips with Winter Climbing in Scotland.
More details can be found on his website alpinerob.com
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