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planetFear - Rock Climbing, Adventure Racing, Mountain Biking

Mooching round the Midi

Posted by Rob Wills Alpine Blog
Saturday 2nd July 2011
Get your motor running, head out on the highway... yet another week has flown by and we are already one day into July. I've missed Glasto, no great loss, but still have the Bulldog bash, 25th Anniversary to look forward to.

Anyroad up enough waffle let's get to business.

Monday: had a stroll round to the Conscrits Hut.

Conscrits Hut and Tre le Tete 

 Conscrits Hut and Tre le Tete

It's a great little walk there are a few chains etc to help with the more exposed sections - if you're heading that way don't be tempted by the crappy looking gully line way right of the ladders; there were people going up and coming down it, to get off the glacier, it looked shocking. Get your crampons on and just walk up the straightforward ice slope at the snout of the glacier below Mont Tondu.

Mont Tondu 3169m 

 Mont Tondu 3169m

It all looked quite snowy up there, teams on Mount Tondu, but think in a few weeks time its going to look less snowy.

The next few days, well sorry folks didn't do much went for runs and bouldering in woods near to Argentiere, and also Col du Montets.

Friday however is a different kettle of poached eggs on toast....

Mont Blanc du Tacul from below the Midi 

Mont Blanc du Tacul from below the Midi

I joined the merry throngs and went up to have a mini the moocher around the Midi. It was RAMMED up there; here is a list of what was getting done:

Contamine/Mazeud Route on the Triangle - at least 4 teams on it.

Tacul Triangle

Left Edge on the Triangle - at least 4 teams on that.

Tacul Triangle

Chere -  only 2 teams on that, and it looks fab.

Millions on the Tacul also Point Lachenal, Cosmiques Arete and South Face rock routes.

Conditions under foot early on were stunning with lovely crisp snow and conditions on the hill looked good too.

Thumbs up for the Tacul 

Thumbs up for the Tacul

The Schrund on the Tacul has mellowed out a bit, from what it was like early on in season, short steepish section just before it, then a wee little climbish type of thing to get over it, may need a ladder like last year later on in season, there is still the threat from the seracs on the left as you head up, BE AWARE !!!!!

Bergschrund on Mont Blanc du Tacul

 Bergschrund on Mont Blanc du Tacul

Teams also heading down to do rock routes on Point Lachenal.

Other stuff that's got done this week:

North face of Grand Paradiso, is supposed to be in great condition with bucket steps all the way, 42 people were counted on it on Monday.

Dent du Geant  was climbed early on in the week by Al Powel and Rich Cross of Alpine Guides.

Teams also coming down from the Blanc - sounded very windy up there and COLD with some teams turning back due to the temperature.

Midi plan has got a good track on it, but do check on the descent to Requin hut as it sounds quite dangerous, collapsing snow bridges etc, check with guides office or call the Requin hut direct.

The Bionassy was done early in the week and sounded like that too was in great condition .

Conditions out there are generally good, but always try and find out more if you can, the info is all out there, you only have to look or ask.

Next week I'm in Zermatt doing a 4000er week with Smiler, so no doubt will have many a tale to tell when I get back.  Good luck to Rich Cross who's doing a weekend Frendo Spur extravaganza, and he's only just got down from the Blanc today, Friday.

Take it easy out there

 

Rob http://www.alpinerob.com/

Read more blog entries by Rob Wills Alpine Blog

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