Climbing Weissmies - where else would you find singing nuns?

Posted by Rob Wills Alpine Blog
Saturday 16th July 2011
 

Well now they call me the breeze, I keep rollin down the road

This week has been far from a breeze folks, in fact it's been hotter than a rattlesnake's tail in a forest fire.

Glacier below Aiguille du Tour, Albert Prem side

 Glacier below Aiguille du Tour, Albert Prem side

Sunday found Andy, Gwen, Mike, Chris, Robin Beadle and myself along with the masses heading for the Albert Prem hut. Still no sign of the new build, apparently it's supposed to start next year now.......We wait with bated breath. We had a stroll around the glacier going over rope work and crevasse rescue, before retiring back to the hut, and for once a very good evening meal, well for the veggies anyway !

Fenetre du Pissoir

 Fenetre du Pissoir

Monday: We headed up to the Fenetre du Pissoir, it's been years since I been up that way, it was just about there, with soft snow to start and some hardish ice in the middle. There is a bit of a crevasse zone to cross to get to it, and a small bergshrund, which can be outflanked on the left.

 Andy with the Chardonnet in view

 Andy with the Chardonnet in view

We then strolled around to Aig La Tour, which by then only had a couple of teams on it, which was great. Mike, Chris and I got to the summit in good time, and got some great summit pics. We then set off down to the valley and back to the hotel.

Tete Blanche 

Tete Blanche

Tuesday:  A very good but busy traverse of the Crochues, quite a bottle neck on the short climb at the start. Mike led most of the way along it, with me as camera man. Snow on the descent, we used an axe and a ski pole, some people not using either.

Mike and Chris on the Traverse of the Crochues

 Mike and Chris on the Traverse of the Crochues

Wednesday:  The heavens opened, out came Gene Kelly, Marti Pellow, et al. Lots of snow high up, they mentioned up to 10 - 20 cm of the white stuff, I have heard that it was more from folks who where trying the Blanc on Friday. We got down to some crevasse rescue action in the comfort and warmth of the games rooms in the Hotel Richemond.

Thursday: Drive round to Saas Grund, gentle walk up to the Almageller Hut, with some swinging rope bridge action along the way, and some singing nuns ???? who were possibly on the run...... all a bit strange .

En route to Algemeller Hut 

 En route to Almageller Hut

Friday: Climbed the Weissmies from the hut - the route up is fab. If you haven't done it, then get round there and do it.

South south east ridge of Weissmies 

South south east ridge of Weissmies

 Andy on the upper snow ridge of Weissmies

 Andy on the upper snow ridge of Weissmies

The descent is a bit twitchy through the seracs, move quickly and carefully. It's not too bad but you don't want to linger and it's only going to get worse.

 Descending Weissmies

 Descending Weissmies

So there you go, another weeks bites the dust. The Table du Roc couloir isn't there anymore, too dry up there, the Blanc was done on Friday from the Cozzy hut.

The forecast for next week is a real mixed bag, so keep an eye on it, and plan accordingly. Haven't a chance to find out anymore info on what going on, real quick turn around this weekend as I'm in Arolla all next week and driving across tonight, Saturday.

 As per folks, do your home work and be safe.  

ROB http://www.alpinerob.com/

Read more blog entries by Rob Wills Alpine Blog

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