August Round-up

Posted by Rob Wills Alpine Blog
Wednesday 24th August 2011


Leaves are falling all around, time I was on my way.

It's been a strange old few weeks, and I'm behind on my ramblings, so let's not ramble on too much.......

Dix Hut, Arolla, Switzerland

 Dix Hut, Arolla, Switzerland

The weather has been very up and down over the last few weeks, but saying that routes have been getting done. Here's a quick taster.

12th August - Brenva Spur, reported to be in good condition and no probs with the upper seracs. Be careful though now with all this heat and no real re-freezing at night.

13th August - Kufner Arête, also in good condition, but again be aware the lack of overnight re-freeze.

13th August - Frendo Spur, dry rock, good ice higher up, with good anchors.

18th August - Arête du Jardin/ Aig Argentiere, superb route good climbing on great rock, possible to bivi just after Point Yatagan, descend Milieu Glacier

The weather is due to get hotter this week; scorching heat is how it's described in the forecast, freezing level around 4000/4500 metres and -10 5700/5900 metres. So plan accordingly.

I was up around the Albert Prem and Trient hut early in the week, glaciers looking dry and dirty, but still need to rope up, as there are a few slots starting to open up and you have to cross some of them getting from the Prem hut to Aig Du Tour.

Le Tour glacier

 Le Tour glacier

I have a bunch of mates arriving soon, so we are off to do some valley cragging for a few days. Will keep you posted as to our success and failures on our travels.

Keep and eye on that forecast as it getting hotter and things will start to fall down on ya head if you're not careful.

Well done to Greg and Paul, for sticking with it in Arolla, hope all's going well with the diving.

Greg and Paul on the big push for La Luette

 Greg and Paul on the big push for La Luette

Start of Pigne traverse, from the Dix Hut

Start of Pigne traverse, from the Dix Hut

So would just like to say well done to Chris Redfern for getting up the Blanc on Thursday, in the heat........

And a big thanks to all of you who graced me with your company this summer, it's been a blast, hope to catch up at some point. I have a few trips in the pipeline so stay posted and the usual Scottish trip over the winter, then back to the Alps in the spring for some off piste skiing/ski touring and ice climbing.

Thank you one and all..........


Rob Wills   I.F.M.G.A. / U.I.A.G.M.  International Mountain and Ski Guide at your service.


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