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planetFear - Rock Climbing, Adventure Racing, Mountain Biking

Learn Italian for climbing and British ethics

Posted by Peter, The Lemon House
Monday 9th February 2009
In climbing there's lots of debate on ethics and styles, and in among some younger Sardinian climbers the "work routes with your mates telling you how to do it" culture is widespread, reinforced by getting points for your RP's in the site www.shardrock.net with a exponential points scale (6b 17, 6b+ 31 i.e. doubling...7a 244....7b+ 1951...8a 15604) which certainly encourages you to work routes. While in part this is understandable if people climb in a group and often go to the same crags, and the site is a good way of getting to know local climbers, arguably it doesn'y encourage on sight climbing, and discourages multipitch climbing by letting you post only the one hardest pitch and only then if you lead all the pitches (Peter's example of how dumb this is: Sette Anni di Solitudine at Giradili - 4 pitches 6c+, 1 6c, 4 6b+, 4 5c-6b. It seems crazy to log only one pitch of 6c+ if you have done this route. There's no way that the climbing performance of doing the whole route, alternating leads, putting on the quickdraws, seconding the pitches you don't lead with a sack... can be equated to one 6c+ sports climb, with the first two quickdraws clipped, and quickdraws in place and extended...). Anyway, after some protests that on sight should be encouraged, and heated debate, and an offer of a prize for the on sight competition from Graziano, it was decided the on sight classification would be taken more seriously. Peter has offered a copy of the DVD On Sight as a prize, and has prepared a translation into Italian of the transcript of the film which you can download here . Alastair Lee, the film's producer, has generously offered some T shirts.ON SIGHT T shirt from Posing ProductionsON SIGHT T shirt from Posing Productions

Peter has also offered a weekend at The Lemon House as a prize although, since he's leading the onsight competition, this may go to the second-placed person.

Contrast this approach with Greg's, a British climber who's climbed a lot here, including Wolfgang Güllich as his first multi-pitch route(!): "I absolutely loved Sardinia, the climbing, scenery and people were amazing. I personally love remote crags that are off the beaten track. The crags in the Ogliastra region certainly fulfilled this. I have also spent a week at Cala Gonone, but it was nothing in comparison. Wolfgang Gullich was something special. It is a serious proposition, even the walk back to the car should get a grade!!."

The same could be said of Oronnoro, Sardinia's wildest crag and up-to-now only reached by boat, although Peter walked there today in 2 hours from the parking place an hour from The Lemon House.  We plan to do some long routes there next week.

Oronnoro, Cala Gonone and Millenium & dei Colombi caves

 Not much chance of findng one of the Shardrock guys here, eh?

Read more blog entries by Peter, The Lemon House

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