Summer climbing Sardinia: From 5ís and easy 6ís to 8's and 9(?)ís waiting for their FFA

Posted by Peter, The Lemon House
Saturday 30th May 2009

The second half of May here was hot, with temperatures of up to 30°C, and as we got sunburnt it seemed that summer had arrived early. Yesterday, with 4 climbers staying at The Lemon House and all looking to climb 5's and easy 6's, we drove for an hour to Monte Tonneri, a great little NW-facing crag at 3600 feet amsl looking towards Sardinia's highest mountains where there is still (just) snow. 15 routes from 4c to (one) 6b+, often a 5a/b/c shares a stance with a 6a/6a+ so you can lead your 5c and then try to top-rope a 6a. Rachel and Claire were on their first sports climbing holiday, and this was a great place for Rachel to lead her first sports 5c and for everyone to push their grade on a top-rope.

 Summer Sardinia climbing: Claire and Adrian climbing at Monte Tonneri (Seui), Clare belaying

At the other end of the difficulty scale, Jan Kareš of the Czech Republic comes here 2-3 times a year to make new routes in the Su Telargiu Oro (Co ‘e Serra) cave. This May, Jan bolted two new routes, each consisting of a first pitch plus extension. In the cave itself, Czechgame then Checkmate cross the roof of the cave, with two bat hang rests. Jan didn't complete the RP, but the grade should be around 8a+. To the right of the Muro Stendhal, Jan bolted Warm-Up, of around 8a and also waiting for its RP, then a continuation, Tactoo, which Jan thinks is harder - moves of the same difficulty but more sustained, and in total overhanging for 15m in 33m of climbing - than Illy, the route, also equipped by Jan at Su Telargiu Oro and recently freed by Arthur Kubista at 8b+/c. This will probably be one of Sardinia's hardest climbs when freed. Peter joined in as well, bolting the crackline to the left of "Sei Troppo Avanti", and starting up this route. This route, "Fuori dal Branco", also has not been RP'ed, though difficulties should be similar to those of "Sei Troppo Avanti" (8a). See lots of photos of the cave and climbing there here.

Su Telargiu Oro (Co 'e Serra) Sardinia: Jan bolting Checkgame inside cave

Read more blog entries by Peter, The Lemon House

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