4 days on

Posted by Jon Reading
Monday 10th August 2009

Another long weekend in Rocklands!  We've got the car packing down and literally live out of our Nissan 1400 from Wednesday evening to Sunday evening.

Our Nissan 1400 bakkie

Our Nissan 1400 bakkie

On Tuesday 'the Americans' aka Walker, Jesse, Simon, Collin, Anthony and Marian introduced me to a 'nold' area which they have named 'Lorraine'. Nold means new-old i.e. areas that have more than likely been discovered before but have never been officially documented and therefore forgotten and now refound. Lorraine is a mere 200 metres on from the beautiful Sassies area. It is a moderate area with a number of must-do classics. It's a great warm up to Sassies which is mostly hard bouldering. I've drawn a topo and it will be added to the website as soon as humanly possible.

Establishing shot for the Lorraine area


BOATS AND HOS 7B, Lorraine, Collin Horvat

Left, Establishing shot for the Lorraine area.  Right, Collin Horvat climbing 'Boats and Ho's' 7B at 'Lorraine'. 

'The Americans' seem to have a knack for new development. A little further on from 'Lorraine' on the other side of the road they have found a new area which they have named 'Ernies'. Anthony Chertubi dispatched 'Ocho' 8A and a handful of other problems makes this a place worth visiting.

GORA ETA 6C+, Ernie, Jonathan Reading OCHO 8A, Ernie, Anthony Chertudi

Left, Jonathan Reading climbing 'Gora Eta' at Ernies, 6C+.  Right, Anthony Chertudi dispatching 'Ocho', 8A at 'Ernies'.

On Friday it was our turn to show 'the Americans' a new area. Recently discovered by Guy Holwill, 'de Hagen' is a fabulous new area with an unbelievable amount of potential. We spent the day discovering and bouldering new problems. Unfortunately for rest of 'the Americans' trooper Jesse Brown seemed to have forgotten time and Collin was left waiting for him to return to base at 6pm in the evening; no doubt Jesse was in his element.

UNKNOWN, de Hagen, Collin Horvat

Collin Horvat on 'Blue Sky' 7A+ at de Hagen

UNKNOWN, de Hagen, Collin Horvat

Collin Horvat bouldering at the new area at de Hagen

Saturday, we went to Road Crew and Roadside. I am working on 'Orange Heart Traverse' 6C and on my 3rd consecutive day climbing managed to do the final move. I didn't link it but I am hoping to dispatch it on my next visit.

Next we went to Roadside. I watched Kilian Fischhuber work the project 'Airstar'. It is a long standing project that has been tried by many people over the years most notably this year by Nalle Hukkataival and Kevin Jorgesen.  It consists of a huge dyno to a flake and another dyno to the top.  Kilian didn't get it this time but his attempts were very close, perhaps he will get it next time.  Meanwhile Kilian's other half, Anna Stoer impressively sent 'Out Of Balance' 8A, wow!!

AIRSTAR PROJECT, Roadside, Kilian Fischhuber

Kilian Fischhuber working the project 'Airstar'.

Jon tried 'Nutsa' 8A+ ... again. This problem has now become a bit of an epic for him. He's fallen at the last crimp ever since he arrived in May but can't seem to stick it. I guess we've all been there; a problem that really does become a problem because you know you are capable of doing it but you just don't.

We also heard that Nalle Hukkataival sent his project which he has named 'Livin Large' 8C in the new area they have named 'the Champagne Sector'. Best to read this on Chuck Fryberger's blog since he was there.

On Sunday I took a much needed rest day. It was another hot winter's day. I did my antagonist exercises by the dam at the campsite and took a few dips in the freezing cold water. This place is unbelievable, so perfect I really don't want to leave. Jon finally got 'Black Velvet' 8A another one of the those epics I mentioned before.

BLACK VELVET 8A, Plateau, Jonathan Reading

Left, Jon gives it his all on 'Black Velvet' 8A.

We left the campsite with team Germania's spit lamb sending delicious smells across the campsite.

Rocklands Boulders




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